Steve Pardoe's Woodhouse Scar Page

Bouldering and Bimbling at Woodhouse Scar, Halifax
May 2001 with Dave Raper

Here are some pictures from a couple of wonderfully warm and sunny evenings. The friction on this incredibly convenient Yorkshire gritstone outcrop was as good as it gets


David bouldering to warm up.

We messed about on Cave Buttress and Pebble Buttress, bouldering and soloing a few easy routes, then set up a looped bottom-rope on The Overhang Group. Here we climbed Bisto (HVS 5a), The Lip (VS 4c), and The Layback (VD).

Then we trolled along to Gashed Buttress, where I soloed Kriss (VD), which I thought had rather a tasty finish for VDiff ; and we both soloed Kryton Crack (S), which offers some excellent jamming.

A lovely end to the day, what could be better?

On the next visit, we started at the Spire Rock end, and did three routes : Dave led, and I seconded Twin Cracks (VS 4b), which seemed pretty hard for the grade; and we both bottom-roped Spigolo (HVS 5a), which seemed next-to-impossible for the grade, and would be a very bold lead

Right : Spire Rock : Twin Cracks are the, er, cracks, and Spigolo follows the arête. The lower part of the buttress is much more compact, and offers no protection, and not a lot of holds, either

Below left : Dave having a look at Parete (5b)

Below right : Steve bouldering out the start of Spigolo

We bouldered our way along to Pyramid Buttress, where Steve led Innominate Crack (S), which has good protection for the start, and a slightly awkward finish past a small tree
Steve leading Innominate Crack

Above left : a very good nut can be placed from the ground to protect the start...

Above right : ...moving up: a left hand/fist jam at the back of the break does the biz...

Below right : ...lock-off, and a big reach for the next break.

Although it's called a crack climb, most of the work is above it

Dave cruises the route with a bit of gear in place: "here's one I prepared earlier".
A little more bouldering, including soloed repeats of Kryton Crack, just for the, er, crack, finished off an excellent outing
Above, Dave soloing Kryton Crack, an easy Severe; as with Innominate, it's getting out of the crack that provides the interest (especially solo)...

...and Steve starting the same route


There's some more of the same at The Bridestones.

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