Steve's Climbing Pages

1. May 2000, The Roaches

Update 4. May with some more photos, frame grabs from Simon's video

Simon and I went for a day's climbing at this excellent Staffordshire gritstone crag. Lovely weather, no crowds ...

We climbed Prow Cracks (D), Prow Corner (VDiff, excellent), and also did the traverse (not in the guidebook) that starts in the left hand crack of Prow Cracks, traverses the lower third of Chalkstorm (using the obvious break above the lady's red helmet), and finishes up the crack to the right of Prow Corner. This splendid link deserves a name

The Prow area, Lower Tier

A climber (in yellow shirt) takes a call on his mobile as he seconds the traverse, while another chap finishes Prow Corner. Meanwhile, a lady starts on the left hand of Prow Cracks before repeating the traverse route

Simon catching some rays at the foot of Jeffcoat's Chimney

Steve posing on Prow Corner
[Still from video]

We then set off for the Upper Tier.

Jeffcoat's Chimney (VDiff, 24m, **) was free, and I hadn't climbed it before, so we did that.

It's quite an awkward start, rather polished, and I thought it was full on for a VDiff. We did it in two pitches, the second one very short, but quite tasty, and it well deserves its two stars

Steve on belay, top of first pitch, Jeffcoat's Chimney
[Still from video]

May Day Bank Holiday, bone dry and sunny, with an accurate forecast ...

... and the Great Slab is almost deserted

After Jeffcoat's Chimney, we moved along to the Maud's Garden area, and I led Beckermet Slab (again), this time in the dry. Only the start rates VDiff, the rest is easy
Steve demonstrating the nut placement that protects the one awkward move, swinging out onto a rather polished break from the comfortable bridge onto Maud's Garden

Simon on Beckermet Slab. He left the camera running as he seconded the route, so he's also got a nice video action shot of him nearly barn-dooring off ...
[Still from video]

Thanks and big hugs to Simon, for good company and thoroughly competent seconding, on his first rock outing since leaving University ten years ago

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